Eri Silk - what an amazing material
Border Dispute
In the rural area of east Assam, close to the landlocked state of Nagaland in the northeastern region of India, the women of the villages traditionally grow Eri worms. The villages are bordered by the Indian states of Arunachal Pradesh to the north, Assam to the west, Manipur to the south, and the Sagaing Region of Myanmar (Burma) to the east.
Due to a running border dispute, also at the Indian high court, there are hardly any development funds provided.
There are 12 different tribes in the area, the most militant of which are the Naga. Cash comes only through drug smuggling, with weapons supplied by nearby China.
Self Sufficient village life
13 women, some of them with their children, came to the meeting. The women are very vocal, representing 95 households and understand exactly what is needed to increase silk production. Our initiative provides sheds for community-wise growing of silk and a safe storage - the women provide the land and do the work on premise.
People of Ahom
The tribes' life is very challenging - but mainly self-sufficient. Ahom construct houses from bamboo and mud - half timbered, but they use bamboo instead of wood.
For clothing they produce silk, which they hand-spin directly from the unwashed cocoon. The fabric they weave has no sheen, which results when the cocoon is degummed before spinning.
Every household has a "garden" where the daily nutrition is grown. Potatoes, coconut, fruit trees like jack fruit, pomegranate and bananas (the banana roots contain vital salt), rice, tea, oil from mustard and coconut, which is also used for hair and skin care.
There are also pigs, chickens, ducks, goats and cows - but holding animals is difficult because of leopards all around.
Castor Plants - an Eri worms' favorite dish
In addition to a community building for joint Eri growing, the women also asked for castor seeds. The worms love these leaves. This is only a one time investment, because after growing the first castor plants, the seed can be saved for future cultivation.
Castor plants would be grown along the border of the villagers' fields, which would also act as pest repellent for the field crop. Farm land, on which food crops can be grown, would not be used for Eri worm food production.
Empowering
The payment for the silk goes directly into the individual women's bank accounts. Even in the remote area, mobile phone based banking is available and used. This gives the women in particular, direct control about their income, which they save for emergencies and for the education of their children.
6 weeks alive - a wonder of life
Silk worm go through (at least) four different phases in their life.
After the moth lays its eggs, it takes a couple of days until the small worm hatches and gets hungry. Best case scenario: there is a castor plant leave around. The worm will stay, run through four stages of molting - until it has sufficient.
How fast the worms grow and the grubs develop, depends on temperature and moisture. They grow faster when it is warmer, but die if it is too hot. Therefore, production is paused in June and July at the height of the monsoon.
The worm stage lasts about 2 weeks.
From Eri worm to...
To identify, wether the worm is ready to build its cocoon, the people know a trick: Carefully rub the worm between your fingers and if you hear a "sand rattle"-like sound - the worm is fed up.
When the worm stops eating, it is ready to spin the cocoon. This takes about 1 week.
Inside the worm metamorphoses into a grub. The metamorphoses from grub to moth takes about 2 weeks.
Once the moth has emerged and extended its wings, it will lay eggs after day 2.
...the most amazing fiber
Cocoons contain several valuable things: the fiber, silk fibron, ceratin, sericin, just to name a few. Silk is used in textile industry for yarn and fabrics, but also for cosmetics and health care products.
In contrast to the Eri silk, other types of silk worms are typically killded during the industiral process of cooking the cocoon, before the moth can exit it. The industry wants to avoid, that the cocoon fiber gets damaged. Eri silk moth can leave the cocoon. They are not killed for the silk cocoon and sliver production.